Muscat 2017 Grand Cru Saering (Dry)
Vinous by Ian d’Agata 94/100
"Straw-green. Delicate but refined aromas of fennel, bitter orange, tangerine and lime. Crisp, dense and juicy, this subtle and very long Muscat wine closes bright and focused, with rose water and lime-accented flavors and an aromatic green mint oil and chlorophyll component that speaks of early-harvested grapes. This is a really standout, highly elegant and deep Muscat wine that boasts sneaky concentration and complexity: the limestone soil contributes to the very refined, high-acid (0.5 g/L r.s. and 5.1 g/L total acidity) mouthfeel. Still very young and very typical of the Saering Grand Cru (which tends to give wines that are very closed in their youth but seemingly could keep forever). A blend of 70% Muscat Ottonel and 30% Muscat d’Alsace. Jean Dirler harvested this earlier than usual (on September 9) in order to ensure adequate freshness; I wonder if he didn’t sacrifice a touch of physiologic ripeness in the process, but I think his was the right decision in hot 2017, and the wine is just beautiful to drink already now."
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